Lidija Fairbanks

Sweeping, glazing, tie & dye…. The camp’s dictionary

Do you want to change your colour? The first question to ask yourself is: “Do I really need a colouring? “Indeed, this technique always requires maintenance.

If you do not have grey hair, you should instead use lightening techniques that do not require much maintenance. You can let your hair grow without fear of regrowth marks. To find the method that suits you and you will find it in the vocabulary of colorists, Romain, from the Romain Colors show, reviewed for us all the essential terms to master before starting.

Ammoniaque

Ammonia is a molecule used to soften the hair, to stretch it, to open the scales so that all dyes can penetrate and modify the pigment inside the hair. When there is none, a neighbouring molecule, called ethanolamine, replaces it.

Scanning

Sweeping is a technique that does not cover grey hair but melts it into the mass, while lightening the hair sparingly.

Bronde

The bronde is for blondes who want to darken their hair slightly while remaining blonde. Women are often torn between blond and brown, so it’s a nice compromise. Hence the contraction of the words brown and blonde.

Colouring

It is “dyeing”. We coat the hair with colour, we change its natural pigmentation. The vegetable colouring is mixed with hot water and consists of plants and algae only. The exposure times are very long and are carried out under a steam helmet. Chemical staining can be done with ammonia for maximum coverage or radical changes. For a less aggressive product for the scalp, we prefer a version without ammonia.

Discoloration

It is depigmentation of the hair, i. e. a part of the hair’s natural pigments is removed by an oxidation process. It’s an aggressive technique. The more you bleach (which will be the case for a platinum color for example), the more you anaesthetize the hair.

Maintenance

To maintain its colour, it is necessary to use sulphate-free shampoos, as this has a real impact on the colouring agents’ resistance. You can also apply a repigmentation mask regularly to revive the colour and treat your hair with deep care such as an oil-based mask, which you should leave on – if possible – all night long.

Flash

Flash is a technique that uses the principle of discoloration and is applied by rubbing the hair between her fingers. It will be done on the top of the head and on the lengths to bring shine and light to the hair.

Glazing

Similar to flash, glazing aims to accentuate volumes and relief and give a sunny effect to the hair. It is carried out in a localized way on the lengths and towards the tip of the hair.

Scrubbing

This technique is intended for darker colours that you would like to get rid of. Colouring pigments are removed by oxidising them, and then the hair is re-coloured with a lighter colour.

Wicks

Unlike sweeping, which is melted into the hair, the wick technique is more contrasting.

Ombré hair

Shadow hair consists in creating a difference of a few tones between the root (the first third of the hair) and the lengths and ends. Unlike tie & dye, which is very pronounced, shaded hair provides a more mellow result. It is a less radical gradient, but it can be just as strong in contrasts.

Patina

Patina, gloss or varnish are all terms used to define a very light colouring, with low oxidation or without oxidation, which will be carried out to give a reflection to a colour or correct an undesirable reflection. This technique can be used to add shine to the hair.

Splashlight

Splashlight is like a ray of light that passes through the hair. In a well-defined area of the hair, a ray of intense colour is created. It can be of any key. The difference must be really visible compared to the rest of the hair.

Tone on tone

The tone on tone is a colouring with an oxidant with a low hydrogen peroxide content, which gives very little lightning. It changes the colour of the hair by a maximum of one tone, really playing on the reflections. That’s why it’s called ton sur ton. It gives an immediate boost to the hair.

Tie & dye

The principle of tie & dye is to keep its natural colour at the roots until about mid-length, then to display another colour on the rest of the hair and on the ends. It’s kind of a horizontal sweep.

Sailing sail

Making a veil is like taking a fairly large but shallow strand of hair, on which you come to place a dye or bleach in a sawtooth pattern. Sails are widely used both in.

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